HIKING & BACKPACKING THE SHT
By John Keefover of Keefography
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The Superior Hiking Trail Association just released their new Trail Atlas and Map Series, as well as their Digital Maps via the Avenza Maps App. I’m excited and proud to announce that my photo of me standing on the cliffs overlooking Bean Lake is on the cover of them! You can purchase any of these new maps through the SHTA website here now, and soon at REI, or any of your local outfitters in Minnesota. These new maps come at the perfect time to hit the trail for fall colors!
My photo of me on the cliffs overlooking Bean Lake is featured on the new SHT Maps and Trail Atlas! After camping down on the shore of Bear Lake I woke up early for this sunrise shot along the ridge line.
The Superior Hiking Trail is a 310+ mile trail that runs from the Minnesota and Wisconsin border just south of the port city of Duluth near Jay Cooke State Park, and stretches all the way up to Canada along the scenic North Shore of Lake Superior through the Sawtooth Mountain Range. It’s managed, built, and maintained by the non-profit organization the Superior Hiking Trail Association consisting mostly of volunteers. The SHT passes through 8 scenic State Parks and lots of private property the land owners were gracious enough to allow permission for use. Please respect the trail and the land by abiding all trail rules and practicing Leave No Trace. The trail is intended for hiking only. No motorized vehicles, mountain bikes or horses are allowed on the trail. Blue paint blazes and SHT signs mark the main trail, and white paint blazes mark the spur trails. Spur trails lead to scenic overlooks, campsites, and trailheads.
Volunteers help build, manage, and maintain features like this boardwalk near Sonju Lake. Some of the remote locations with features like these really make you appreciate all of the hard work put into not only building it, but getting the materials there as well.
The trail is split up into many different sections with trailheads at each starting and end point which makes it great for day hikes, shuttling, or leaving multiples cars when hiking with 2 or more people. Not all trailheads allow overnight parking, and State Park Passes are required if parking in State Parks. Passes are $7 daily, or $35 for a years pass to all Minnesota State Parks. Other than that are no fees to hike or camp on the SHT, but please do consider donating or becoming a member of the SHTA to help support this wonderful trail!
The SHT passes through 8 Minnesota State Parks, including Gooseberry Falls State Park pictured here at sunset. This is one of the most popular destinations along the North Shore, and for good reason. It’s filled with both waterfalls and tourists.
For backpack camping there are 94 campsites along the trail that each have multiple tent pads and suitable trees to hang hammocks. Campsites are first come first serve and are to be shared with others if room. Don’t expect to have a site all to yourself, especially on a busy weekend or at a popular destination. I’ve shared many sites with nice people, exchanging stories and becoming friends around the fire.
The Milky Way rises over the Split Rock River. This was taken from the Southeast Split Rock River Loop campsite. When camping on the Split Rock River you must park your car at Split Rock Lighthouse State Park with a State Park pass, as overnight parking is not allowed at the Split Rock River Wayside Rest. This trail does make a good day hike from that trailhead though. The bridge connecting the loop is out after flooding years ago so you will have to wade across the river or double back.
Each site has a nearby latrine away from camp, so there’s no need to dig a cat hole in the woods. Only toilet paper goes in the latrine. Don’t throw your trash in there as it makes it hard to clean out and can attract wildlife. Speaking of wildlife make sure you’re hanging or otherwise safely securing your food, toiletries and other scented items away from camp. The SHT is black bear country. Hanging or using a bear canister will help ensure bears and other critters won’t get your food and further prevent them from associating food with humans and campsites. It may be difficult to find a suitable branch to hang a bag at a lot of the sites so give yourself plenty of time before dark to find a good branch. I use the PCT Method for hanging a bear bag.
The Crystal Creek Bridge is a beautifully built covered bridge. There’s a nearby campsite with a hidden waterfall and a sign marking what was once an old mine shaft. The Crystal Creek Camp has one of the nicest Latrine views overlooking Lake Superior as well!
Each campsite also features a fire pit. When on the SHT only use these fire pits and do not build fires outside of the designated fire pits. These are great for cooking food, warming up and just spending the night around with the good company of your friends or new acquaintances you’ve met on the trail! In dry conditions there may be a fire ban in the region including at these backpacking sites so take a look at the fire reports before you head out.
Most campsites are near water sources, be it a lake, pond, river or creek, but water levels may vary depending on conditions. Some sources do dry up quite a bit in the summer and fall. Make sure you have plenty of water for drinking or cooking and bring some kind of water filter, tablets, or method to boil water for safe consumption.
Most campsites are near a water source, like this secluded waterfall tucked away near Penn Creek Camp.
The bugs and ticks are quite thick in the backwoods of Northern Minnesota. Before you head out it’s recommended to coat all of your clothes and gear in permethrin to help stop initial contact. That’s not always enough though so bring some bug spray, a bug net, and/or a Thermacell unit to keep the rest away!
The weather can change quickly and drastically out on the SHT so be prepared with proper rain gear and extra clothing. Nights get cold up north so it’s good to have a warm set of clothes with you. Once I get to camp I like to take off my hiking boots and throw on a pair of sandals to air my feet out and relax. Just in case you end up out on the trail longer than expected and are hiking in the dark you’ll want a good headlamp as well. A lightweight first aid kit, matches in a waterproof container, and a whistle are also recommended in case of an emergency. A good compass and a set of those new SHT maps will help you on your hike as well. It’s always good to be ready for anything. I’ll gladly add some extra weight to make sure I’m safe out on the trail!
The weather can change quickly on the SHT, like it did here on the cliffs of Section 13 when we were admiring the fall colors. A storm moved in seemingly out of nowhere and we hiked back to the trailhead in the rain.
Wether you’re going out for a day hike, overnighter or even longer trip on the trail, make sure you’re prepared and know the basics of Leave No Trace and trail etiquettes so everyone can enjoy it for generations to come!
Photos shown of the trail & more of the North Shore are available as prints here:
Trip Report from backpacking the 42 mile long Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore Trail. It follows sandy beaches and dramatic cliffs along Lake Superior in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan.